Oil based, substantive type and acid type are three general types of conditioners.
Oil based conditioners are the traditional conditioners and are sometimes called emollients or conditioning creams. They are the simplest method of conditioning. The oil added to the hair is to replace the natural sebum removed by shampooing and treatment such as perming, tinting or bleaching. The oils used are often in the form of an emulsion in water, which makes spreading on to the hair easier, and are left coating the hair when the water evaporates. Lanolin (from sheep’s wool) or slightly altered forms of lanolin are a good substitute for human sebum and are often used.
To ensure that the conditioning effect lasts beyond the next shampoo, moist heat, e.g. hot towels or a steamer, can be used to swell the cuticle allowing the conditioner to penetrate deeper into the hair shaft. As the hair cools, the cuticle scales close, trapping some of the conditioner between them, thus preventing complete removal at the next shampoo.
Substantive type conditioners or internal conditioners become fixed to, or absorbed into, the hair shaft, mainly due to the electric charge on the conditioner molecule and the hair shaft. This category includes some soapless detergents and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) which acts as both a setting agent and a conditioner.
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Other materials which appear to be absorbed by the hair include the protein conditioners (sometimes called restructurants). Because the hair is dead it cannot be ‘fed’, but does have the ability to absorb small polypeptide chains and single amino acids. These are produced by breaking down animal or plant proteins and the evidence is that some is deposited on the cuticle and some passes through the cuticle into the cortex. The amount absorbed by the hair seems to increase in the more damaged areas of the hair shaft, which is a very good property for a conditioner to have. The evidence does show, however, that this type of conditioner is most effective at protecting the hair from damage; so it is best applied before a perm, tint or bleach is carried out. Whether protein conditioners used after the treatment in any way increase the tensile strength or elasticity of the hair is not clear, although some evidence seems to indicate that they do.
Acid type conditioners are based on the natural skin and hair secretions including sebum and sweat. They have a pH value between 4 and 6. They produce an acid mantle over the hair and since pH does influence hair condition in that at acid pH the cuticle scales are flat, the hair is then smooth and shines. Cuticle may swell and scales may open under alkaline pH condition. This makes hair rough, dull and more liable to both physical and chemical damage. Acids also help to hold the water soluble products produced by perm lotionand peroxide attacking the hair. Without an acid pH these can be washed from the hair during shampooing and weaken it.
pH restorers contain organic acids, e.g. citric acid, and have a pH of about 3. They are used to chemically neutralise the alkaline deposits left on the hair after perming, bleaching and tinting and are formulated to leave the hair with a pH of about 4.
pH balancers are mildly acidic, e.g. pH 6. They are used, for example, in pH balance shampoos to ensure the final pH of the hair is acidic. Organic acids are used, e.g. citric, tartaric and lactic acids.
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DS Laboratories Revita Hair Growth Stimulating Shampoo, 180 ml Bottle
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Mega-Tek Rebuilder Hoof, Mane & Tail, 16 oz
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